dymondia plant

1. round up
2. plastic paper, hot toast the lawn
3. organic mulch + sand, plant it


http://www.native-again-landscape.com/lawn-to-drought-resistant-perennials.html
. Check your local county, city, and water district for rebate programs

2. Buy or create a new water-wise plant design

3. Purchase plants

4. Change out your lawn sprinkler irrigation system

5. Kill your lawn safely and organically, and save your back

6. Dig holes and plant

7. Mulch and water. Continue watering as needed until plants are established

 

 

 

As with all plants, success with Dymondia requires adequate soil preparation. Till the soil to a depth of at least 10 inches, breaking up any hard areas and large clods. The roots need lots of room to roam. After you dig the planting holes the same depth as they were in the 1-gallon container, fill them with water, allow them to drain and fill them again. Plant the plugs 18 inches on center (measure 18 inches from the center of one hole to the center of the next). Keep the Dymondia plants well watered until they show new growth, then gradually decrease both the amount of water given and watering frequency.

Read more: http://www.ehow.com/info_12183371_much-foot-traffic-can-dymondia-take.html#ixzz2v7n6Rz7p


http://www.dryclimategardening.com/dymondia-margaretae-an-excellent-ground-cover-plant-for-a-mediterranean-climate-garden/
One drawback worth mentioning is that Dymondia margaretae grows slowly, often taking two or three years to establish itself. It is this characteristic that often puts people off the plant, especially as the gaps between the specimens fill up with weeds. The best way round this is to spread organic mulch on the soil, taking care not to smother the plants in the process. The mulch not only helps to suppress weed germination, but also greatly improves the growing conditions for the plants. Mulch on the other hand is ineffective against noxious perennial weeds, which ought to be eliminated before planting.


http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/grdcvr/msg051242419465.html

Dimonsion, weed killer,  professional lawn care stores carry it

Dymondia: Watering is by either mini popups or sub surface drip. Watering times are about 30% less than the turf. Fertilization is also about 30% less than turf. 

Patches of rotting/dying off appear in spots in all the zones, especially the last few years. These spots tend to appear during the transition from Fall to Winter and Spring to Summer. I attribute them to a fungus associated with mushroom and spray accordingly with a fungicide.

Try Daconil. Will require adherence to the label and more than one application. Spray not a drench. You’ll be treating the plant and the soil with spray. I believe the fungus is called Scelorateria(sp).
If the weeds are grasses Fusilade is a good herbicide without harming the Dymondia. Broadleafs are another problem, especially Oxalis which we hand weed using an asparagus knife. You just have to learn to hand weed with minimal damage to the Dymondia. There are no easy answers in gardening is there?

DoYourOwnPestControl.com or DoMyOwnPestControl.com 


http://www.xericworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4

 every plug should be in the range of 3" apart. That would hinder weed seeds from germinating.
Ronstar  to prevent week

Edisann -
A 50 cell plug tray means that there are 50 individual cells lined up in a 5 row by 10 row pattern within a 10 inch x 20 inch standard tray. This means each cell is about 1.5 inches square (depends on the vendor). Dymondia is a relatively fast grower. If you want fast growth and work with some weeding issues to get it going, plant each plug on 6 inch centers. The way to figure out how many plants is to measure each side of the area you are trying to plant. If you use a square, that would mean each side is roughly 22.36 feet long. So lets use 22 feet to make it easier. On six inch centers or 1/2 a foot, divide the sides by .5. So 22 divided by .5 = 44 + 1 for the outside row = 45. Multiply your needed plants by each value - so 45 x 45 = 2,025 plants divided by 50 = 40.5 50 cell plug trays. I have seen prices per plug range from 39 cents to 1.19 each. So your cost could be between $790.00 - $2,410. The average is around 65 cents each, a bit less in flat form. For a more economical method, space at 12 inches apart so that is 23 x 23 = 529 plants x .65 = $350.00. Good luck and hope this helps.

If you live in an inland climate with warm summers, you may also try a process called solarization for preemptive weed abatement. This will require initial removal of as much surface weed material as possible, together with sharp rocks and other debris that may puncture the plastic sheeting used in the process. This technique is only practical for broad, continuous areas free of twists, turns and other obstacles. Moreover, the selected area should be tilled lightly and smoothed of any lumps prior to laying the plastic. If tilled too deeply, weed seeds and regenerative parts may be placed beyond the reach of lethal temperatures.

The plastic should be clear - don't use black plastic as this does not trap as much of the sun's energy as the former. The plastic should form a tight seal against the soil - any air gaps will create a thermal buffer zone before the soil. Having it tight will also keep the plastic motionless in the wind, thereby preventing air movement underneath. The edges of the plastic can be sealed by piling soil on top of the edges. Another tip: irrigate the soil heavily prior to laying the plastic. The moisture will allow more heat to be conducted deeper into the soil profile, and throughout air spaces. It will also help maintain the high temperatures once they are achieved.

If done correctly, and performed during an extended period of 90+ degree weather conditions, lethal soil temperatures of 130 - 150 degrees F can occur on enough days, down to a depth of up to 8 inches. To do enough damage, these temperatures should occur for a least 7 cumulative days. This may mean leaving the plastic intact for a few weeks or more, depending on the weather.

No herbicide will kill weed seeds directly, but this method can, in addition to killing rhizomes and stolons. Such is important since weeds withhold germination of the entire seed bank by nature's design. Solarization, however, has its limitations. Most mortality will occur in the top several inches of soil, and things may be missed deeper down. A round or two of spraying may be necessary afterwards, not only to test the efficacy of the solarization treatment, but also to kill any stragglers. Weeds on the edges of the plastic are mostly likely to escape.

In addition, some fresh compost and/or mycorrhizal inoculum should be incorporated post-solarization and before planting to discourage pathogenic fungi from rapidly recolonizing the newly sterilized soil.

As far as Dymondia, all I can add is that it requires a lot of water during establishment, but quickly puts out deep roots and becomes quite drought-hardy in time.

Matt